“If somewhat smoky and briary in scent, this wine is at first a bit dry and reluctant as far as fruit is concerned. One in the mouth, it surprises with deeper and better endowed flavors than promised, and its combination of ample extract and balanced structural tannins puts it squarely on the varietal track. It has the richness and depth to grow into better, and five to seven years of patience should be rewarded by increased complexity.”