“We expect a certain degree of toughness from ambitious young Cabernets, and this one certainly complies, but do not be put off by its unruly ways for there is a very good measure of deep and defined, ripe-currant fruit at its core and plenty of peppery, toasted-herb accents along with a not-so-small dose of sweet oak. Its structural bones stick out at the finish even as its fruit stays the course, and, if five years of waiting will make a good wine better, ten might do it even more.”
