“Concentrated fruit is the force that guides this optimally ripened young wine, yet, while eminently fruity in character, it is laced with lovely oak spice and shows a genuine sense of complexity. Slightly fleshy and then slightly firm on the palate, it has a bit of Pinot’s classic velvety feel but does show its youthful acidity at the end. Its late-arriving tannins and minor touches of finishing heat are matched step for step by unflagging fruit, and a few years of time in the cellar seem certain to make this very good thing even better.”
