“Straightforward smells of ripe apples and creamy sweet oak are backed by subtle accents of toast and lees here, and the wine’s very deep, fruit-focused flavors are similarly fit with a fine bit of balanced oak spice. If moderately full in body, the wine is never especially heavy or dense, and its steady, remarkably persistent fruit owes nothing to overblown ripeness. It shows no signs of tiring soon, but it is wholly delicious right now and requires no further age for full enjoyment.”